Paris, France01/22–03/22

Elisabeth Sedlak

My three-month stay at the Cité international des arts in Paris gave me the unique opportunity to live very close to the places where the surrealists used to move about and were the most important collections and museums focusing on this movement still are today. I arrived in Paris on 6 January 2022, which was not quite easy due to the pandemic – especially at the outset when COVID infection rates were very high in Paris and access to research institutions was rather restricted. During my first weeks in Paris, I nevertheless tried to go to museums or look for bookshops and antiquarian booksellers as often as possible. Thus, I soon settled into Paris – in spite of calls for social distancing and working from home.

As masks still had to be worn in the streets in January, I worked a lot at the studio during that month, but already contacted several artists, experts and collectors in writing or by phone so that my schedule became busier and busier and I had several exciting appointments every day towards the end of the month. At any rate, life started to get easier: Infection rates went down, all research institutions were open and masks did not have to be worn outdoors. Moreover, there were already many sunny, warm days in February, because spring comes a bit earlier in Paris than in Vienna. Every Wednesday evening, several artists opened their studios at the Cité, which I liked immensely because I learned a lot about the work of the other artists living all around me. Besides, on these tours, I was simply able to get to know many special and interesting people whom I liked to meet and talk with during everyday life at the Cité.

1. My stay in one word:
  curiositas
2. Dos & don’ts in this place:
  Dos: Crossing the street on a red pedestrian light
Don’ts: Boarding the Metro after the beep
3. Things I miss since I am no longer there:
  The Seine and its seagulls, speaking and hearing French, baguette and cheese, the easy-going lightness palpable during each stroll, all the wonderful small bookshops and stationers and the possibility to enter many galleries without “panicking” at their doorstep
4. Where to shop great supplies:
  On Ile Saint-Louis, there are many small shops waiting to be discovered, but I recommend several strolls through the numerous
5. What you should definitely bring with you from home:
  A sharp knife for the kitchen, an umbrella, good shoes, a bath mat to prevent slipping
6. Concerning art at this destination and where I visited the best exhibitions:
  Make full use of what the Cité offers by all means. Besides that, there are so many things to do in Paris that I can only recommend you to establish a list of priorities since there is hardly enough time – even if you stay for a year – to do everything you planned or that crops up.
7. Around the studio – where I shop, drink my coffee and get the best lunch deal in walking distance:
  I bought food in Saint-Paul, usually at the Monoprix or the market stalls. There, I often got lost in the abundant variety of cheeses on offer. Soon, I also started to go to a new bakery every day to explore the different quality parameters of baguette. The Grand Prix, which has the best traditional French baguette, kept me warm and in a good mood in the cold winter months. Since I mainly moved around the first district due to my personal interests, I liked to have lunch in the Japanese quarter. Around Rue Saint-Anne, there are many small restaurants serving very good meals for lunch. There also is an Asian supermarket called K-Mart offering a great variety of take-away dishes. I often bought my lunch there and ate it sitting on one of the green chairs at the Jardin des Tuileries. I found those lunch breaks most relaxing.
8. Where I like to spend the evening (dinner, drinks, best sound and networking opportunity):
  On warm days by the Seine having a glass of wine and a small picnic and on cold days I liked best watching a movie at the Cinémathéque française and later on, talking about the film seen
9. What would have been useful to know before coming here and starting my residency:
  That the heating cannot be regulated in the studios even if the room temperature is outside the comfort zone. In some studios it is too cold while it is much too hot in others.