Veronika Merklein

In the first weeks you want EVERYTHING: to get to know all the artists at the Cité, to discover the whole city, and to further develop your own art. At some point, however, the realization sets in that the fear of missing out is an everyday feeling. In Paris you always miss something – and that’s perfectly okay.

My project got off to a rather slow start. I had come with a research plan that depended on finding certain people whose names I didn’t know at first. I quickly realized that French people do not answer emails spontaneously – if at all. For a while I thought my project might be called “Never received a response.” But eventually the knot unraveled: I identified the people I was looking for, was able to interview some of them, and suddenly found myself in the role of a historian. This new perspective opened up completely new paths in my work and enriched me greatly.

Paris is a city full of tourists. To experience the major hotspots more peacefully, I recommend visiting them in the evenings or during the week. At first I was skeptical about summer, but in the end it was milder than expected – and in August the city is wonderfully empty. A refreshing tip is the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, which was modeled after Vienna’s Türkenschanzpark.

Contrary to all clichés, Parisians are by no means arrogant. On the contrary, my partner and I had wonderful and funny encounters while trying to get by with our clumsy French. And even though I resisted for a long time, the typical tourist program is definitely worth it – especially visiting the Eiffel Tower in the evening, when it is bathed in sparkling light on the hour. In my opinion, the best view of the tower is from the Trocadéro Square.

The city traffic is a topic of its own, or as one fellow artist aptly put it: “Red is only a suggestion.” The metro is efficient, but barrier-free it is not. Buses are often overcrowded, and the subway is a real labyrinth – that makes me appreciate Vienna. Getting around by bike is certainly great, as long as you can withstand Parisian street anarchy.

My conclusion: I will come back, I will come back with fresh funds, and I will come back to continue my project and because Paris is simply a wonderful city and the Cité a unique place.

Tip: If you would like to apply for an international residency at the Cité, I have one important recommendation: the Cité does not expect a finished product in the end, but rather a work in progress and the willingness to exchange ideas.

Website resident:              veronikamerklein.net